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Author Topic: WILD THANG  (Read 7413 times)
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Rocketmad
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« on: September 05, 2012, 03:37:45 PM »

well most of you know what i am building so i might as well start a thread.

i brought a Wild Thang for my L 3 attempt and it is also my first glass kit so lets see if i can stuff it up.



well here it is.
parts list
1 nose cone
1payload section
1 av bay
1 booster section
1 75mm motor mount
3 center rings
3 cool fins with a big W cut in them
1 retainer
shock cord
and eye bolts.
no parachutes i will let this one just fall back to earth.. no i have chutes already. diztongue
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Nighthawk
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« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2012, 06:55:04 PM »

Awesome choice, cant wait to see that fly. blcool

What was the shipping cost for it?
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Rocketmad
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« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2012, 08:56:36 PM »

$112.00 not to bad
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Rocketmad
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« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2012, 10:05:41 PM »

what are ppls thoughts on adding chopped fiber to the glue mix? there is very little room between the air frame and the motor mount. i was just going to use JB weld and lots of it and the out side fillets i was going to use normal epoxy.
would like to hear what you think and be honest.
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wolflair
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« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2012, 11:01:25 PM »

the amount of room between the airframe and motor mount is not huge problem

i would not add anything to JB Weld construct the fincan using JB and the fillets on the outside also.

standard epoxy can be used in the other parts of the kit like the av bay nose cone etc
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EMiR
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2012, 06:52:49 AM »

Not knowing how you are going to do your fillets etc.. I don't think JB will be the right choice, way too thick and messy.

you need epoxy that will run down inside easily, like westsystems and light mill mix

I wouldn't bother adding chopped strand, in tight places like that it can end up being way to bulky,
and push your weight through the roof.

You just need a nice flowing epoxy to let run down inside. 

Remember for the most part the fins only have to hold themselves on, your rear CR, or thrust plate will take the motor load.
so you internals don't need to be huge.


The cleanest way, would be to cut the fin slot in the BT all the way to the back, so you can slide the Fincan in and out

Glue your fins and forward CR on to the MMT, and using small strips on FG, do the MMT/Fin fillets nice and clean like.
Sliide the fin can into the BT, glue in, the run the smallest of under BT fillets, just using epoxy

Then do your externals with a thick Epoxy and Milled fibre mix. 

Use the Wax paper trick I used on Hyperloc300 build, for your externals, it will give you a super nice looking fillet without days a of sanding.

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Rocketmad
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« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2012, 09:33:37 AM »

going to do a fin can EMiR because it allows me more access to the internal fillets and i have done many fin cans in the past so i am comfortable using this technique.
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hotspot
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« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2012, 09:41:40 AM »

Use Proline 4500 36 dollars for 16 oz tin no need for chopped glass and temperature tolerant way past 500.
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EMiR
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« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2012, 12:24:22 PM »

can you get proline in Australia?

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Rocketmad
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« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2012, 12:36:16 PM »

i have not seen it in oz, unfortunatly i have to go with JB weld this time, maybe next time i will go the proline.
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Rocketmad
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« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2012, 10:07:08 AM »

any one know if JB weld will react to proline? i am thinking of tacking the fins in place with jb weld then when i pull the fin can out fillet it all with pro line. and what is the drying time of pro line?
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wolflair
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« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2012, 01:40:41 PM »

mate you already have the JB weld use that to do your fincan completely and glue the fincan in using JB

then if you buy some proline epoxy in, use that on the fillets proline is very much like JB just a bit thinner Wayne has used proline its good stuff but you are not really gaining anything buy using two different epoxys on the fincan

stick to what you know mate

drying time for proline is around 24hrs full cure much the same as JB , i have the full specs here for proline somewhere will post soon

also the heat rating is also much the same

hope this helps dude
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wolflair
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« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2012, 02:24:38 PM »

DESCRIPTION
Proline is a 100% reactive low viscosity, unfilled, clear laminating resin with high performance characteristics.
This resin and hardener combination make a very strong laminate capable of high temperature with standard room
temp cure. Minimum odor and good color along with its excellent wetting characteristics make it an excellent
choice for high performance laminations of glass, carbon fiber, and Kevlar.

SPECIFICATIONS
Resin
Viscosity at 25 °C 500 – 700 cPs
Color Gardner 1 max.
Mix ratio 100 Parts by weight
Physical Form Clear Liquid
Pounds/Gallon @ 25°C 9.2 Lbs
Hardener
Viscosity at 25 °C 100-200 cPs
Color Gardner <6
Mix ratio 20 Parts by weight
Pounds/Gallon at 25 °C 8.5 Lbs

PROPERTIES
Laminate Neat
Mix Ratio 100:20 By Weight -
Pot Life at 72F 20 minutes -
Mixed Viscosity at 72F 800-875 cPs -
Cured Hardness 90 Shore D* 92 Shore D
Specific Gravity Grams/CC 1.17 1.17
Tensile Strength PSI 46,120* 10,548
Flexural Strength, PSI 71,251* 17,210
Heat Deflection Temp (Tg) 245F * / ** 235F**
* Properties testing with A 10 Ply Laminate Style 7628 Glass Fabric, 60% Glass / 40% Resin
**TG with standard room temp cure, higher TG can be accomplished with a Post Cure

CURING
Standard cure time at room temperature is approximately 24 hours, can be handled and demolded in as little as 8
hours. Faster cure times can be accomplished by using elevated temperature, example full cure in approximately 2
hours at 150F. Do not cure or post cure at temperatures over 300F. Ensure proper ventilation when curing or post
curing with temps over 125F.

SAFETY and HANDLING
Avoid contact with skin, eyes and clothing Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with skin, eyes and clothing Wash
thoroughly after handling. (Always use gloves) Only mix as much as you will need for a 15 minute period, it is
better to mix several smaller amounts than to mix a single large amount as this helps decrease exothermic reactions.
Wash with soap and water before eating, drinking, and smoking. Launder contaminated clothing before reuse.
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hotspot
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« Reply #13 on: September 08, 2012, 02:37:14 PM »

The proline I have is black and is not used for laminating and is mixed with aluminum.
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