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Author Topic: LOC (V2)  (Read 7028 times)
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wolflair
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« on: February 23, 2008, 01:11:25 PM »




fins are very thick and strong
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wolflair
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« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2008, 01:19:28 PM »

body tube
bag of ballast for the nose cone
top centering ring have glued the shock cord nut
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wolflair
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« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2008, 05:51:05 PM »

started the V2 it calls for jb weld to be used mostly in the tail cone since it is made of plastic as epoxy does not bond strong enough to the plastic





 
jb weld everywhere lol
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odyssey

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« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2008, 12:03:22 AM »

Whats the dimentions for the v2 wolflair? Looks like a decent size bird your building.
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wolflair
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« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2008, 12:14:55 PM »

maybe i will paint it this colour :-/
 
 body is 5.5inch/ 48inchs tall /50 inch parachute flys on H/I/J motors Grin
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« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2008, 12:00:49 AM »

Nice camo colours in that picture
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wolflair
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« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2008, 04:35:21 PM »

i have to drill the tail cone this week so the main air frame  will have have a better join on the plastic tail cone to the tube this way it will make a epoxy rivet to help hold the two parts together will post a dirgram later Smiley 8 holes all up
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« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2008, 10:10:34 PM »

Hmm thats a neat trick, using the fins as part of the motor mounts. I may replicate that idea to suit my own needs.
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wolflair
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« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2008, 10:22:52 PM »

most rocket kits use this method Dranoweb in some form or another
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« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2008, 10:25:23 PM »

Yes consider that I have been financially constrained to smaller scratch build models, not having seen the inards of much of the larger models, alot of this is still new to me.

But I am one of these people who is not content with "standard" Often leads to catastrophy, but I have a rather luck filled record in that respect. I seem to find beneficial outcomes in my reverse engineering ways.
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wolflair
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« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2008, 10:27:47 PM »

for me the fins should always go through the body to the motor mount no matter how small
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« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2008, 10:35:23 PM »

Given some of my more quirky designs in the past, that has not always been an option.
That and given my Balsa "sandwhich" approach to motor mounts, it doesnt lend to well to fins protruding internally.
for my smaller designs I usuall start with 5mm balsa and shave it to 2-3mm and flange and concave it to the curvature of the body tube at the base for added stength.
But I can see where that can lead to twisting and in turn, flight complications.

However, my mind is ticking now. As usual, I think I can find a hybrid synergy sort of thing. IE: a better way lol.
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wolflair
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« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2008, 10:53:58 AM »

drilled the holes today for the epoxy revites then glued the main air frame on Grin

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« Reply #13 on: March 26, 2008, 11:24:17 AM »

glue setting

 
once the epoxy was set after a day i like to do a layer of pva glue
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